Holed up on Mount Cammerer

On my third day of hiking (an eventual 13 miles for the day), I was hiking with my new friends up to Mt. Cammerer - a nearly 5,000 footer with a modern style fire tower on top offering 360 degree views of rolling mountains. Approaching the trail up to the tower we encountered another hiker (a 71 year old recently retired veteran whose trail name is GQ) that we had met the night before. He informed us of impending foul weather so we all decided to set up camp in the fully enclosed octagonal fire tower instead of walking another 5 miles to the next shelter. You see, in the Smokies, hikers are relegated to camp only in designated areas, mostly shelters.

After a short, rocky climb to the tower, we all got inside just as the rain came. It passed quickly and left amazing views of sparkling terrain and a giant rainbow. The next day we all liked out of the Northern terminus of the Smokies, which marked the end of the Koreans' trip. One of them, Brian, from San Francisco, lent me his knee braces and trekking poles for the rest of my trip - I don't know what I would have done without them. God bless them and mountain magic.

I walked several miles to a little hiker's oasis called Standing Bear Hostel. It was complete with a cat, dogs, and a rooster - which made for a Zambian sounding morning with the first crow at 4 AM.... Ah felt like home!! Not that anyone else agreed. But the hostel had everything a weary hiker could ask for  - laundry service, pizza oven, beer, and a jam packed snack and gear store. It was a great stay!

The next day's hike had some high ups and downs but I finished early after only 7 miles, since I was nursing my knee. I met back up with GQ and we found the next shelter just in time for rain. Since we weren't restricted to only staying in shelters like in GSMNP, I pitched my hammock under the great trees - alongside 8 other people... including 2 more Floridians!



If you are curious what music I have been bopping along the trail to, I created a youtube playlist for examples :)

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLo7hi_-OeEyKVtvu1qVSe7CAkmCD4k2ZA


Remember two things: Love your Mother and leave nothing but footprints.
b.

Smokies Section

For whatever reason, I decided to start my hike at the highest point on the A.T...

I got an Uber from my lovely hostel in West Asheville to get to Clingman's Dome in the middle of the Great Smokey Mountains National Park (GSMNP). My Uber driver was a retired Vietnam War Veteran from North Carolina. He played excellent mountain music the entire 2 hour ride, so I was feeling inspired to get to walking. I should mention that I have not conditioned myself for this endeavor besides the past 2 years constantly using outdoor gear, living (far) off the grid, and on a carb-heavy staple diet. My legs, however, haven't done this much walking since my last half-marathon a year ago. I don't suggest my approach.

Anyhow, I arrived at my destination and my new pal wished me well before I took off uphill for a 13% steep gradient, half-mile hike up to the Observation Deck on top of the Dome (6,643 ft). The overcast blue mountains were showing off their colors today, so I took a deep breath and dove onto the trail. I walked 10.5 miles until sundown when I reached my first shelter, Ice water Creek. There I met a whole cast of people - some that I would subsequently see throughout the trip since we were headed in the same direction. One couple heading south graduated from Eckerd College near my previous residence and another guy was born in my hometown! Imagine that. Anyway, we prepared our sleeping bags across 2 long wooden platforms under the 3-walled shelter and cozied in for the night. Around 9:30 PM, 4 more people showed up so we made room for them to pile in.

The next day we all ate, packed up and headed out in our respective directions. Since it was Day 2 for me I was already feeling sore with a 25 lb. pack pulling down on me and a bum knee acting up. The weather was cloudy and at our elevation... we were IN the clouds!

About a mile up the way I happened upon the 4 shelter latecomers, they were retired Korean men hiking the Smokies. We became instant friends and for the next 2 days they fed me Korean market food and I think I even started speaking their language! Ha! Two of them were avid hikers. There was a novice at the age of 70. And one guy was very comical and would shout out variations of, "Smokey Highway!!" or, when it was a flat section, "Florida Highway!", they made the hike so entertaining.

I am looking forward to stretches of alone time on the trail but I have met countless hikers with unique stories, all of whom have the same dedication and reverence to the Trail, with the ultimate goal of walking all 2,200+ miles of it. Me, I simply want to take advantage of the blessing of time that I have post Peace Corps and get some fresh air.



Happy Trails is the wise way to say I acknowledge your journey and I wish you strength and pleasure along the way.


Happy Trails!
b.

I'm a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer!

Wow, two years have flown by! Obviously I did not diligently keep this blog updated the whole time... but I have closed my service with Peace Corps Zambia! I'll tell you, the last three months were easily the hardest... saying goodbye was nearly impossible. For all the local languages I learned to speak, there was no way to express through them the abundant gratitude, pride, and love that I have for the citizens of Mulaushi Village and for the Peace Corps staff headquartered in Lusaka. I have learned more than I have taught, I have gained strength in ways I never imagined and I have parted in time and space with my Zambian family and friends; and, as a result, I feel a void in my heart that will take extensive reflection to fill back up.

I am indeed back in the US and trying to reintegrate! Ha! Seriously, I've been reconnecting with friends and family and Florida and consumer choices and voter opinions and traffic! But I'm having a blast figuring out what comes next. Maybe I have it figured out? I'm planning to start Grad school in the Fall, which means the Summer is all mine!

So what am I up to now? Well, currently I'm resisting the race race and hiking along the Appalachian Trail!! I've missed our wild places and I've grown so used to the outdoor, off-the-grid lifestyle so I dropped onto the Trail in the Smokies and I'm walking north. I'll be updating this journal along my merry way, so stay tuned!

Have an adventure for you and I to explore? Just let me know and we'll go! Oh the places....

Keep It Simple Society.
Your Girl, B.

Missing my fur baby and her babes.

It left like losing my innocence when I parted with two of my best friends/helpers!

This is one of the strongest women I know! And the one who take care of me for 2 yrs. My sister, Noria.

Sacred Self Reflection

Today I'm thinking about all the sacrifices I have made to fulfill a longtime dream of mine to serve overseas, albeit in the middle of the African Bush. For the contract of over two whole years I have dedicated myself to this land and its people, every day, living closely to both. I am missing my family's and (BEST, seriously each so dear to me) friends' marriages, divorces, career achievements, children's births.. Luckily no funerals yet.. But I have been to plenty here in central Zambia...

I have momentarily forgone other dreams, job opportunities, paths worth pursuing... In reflection, I used to let fear overwhelm me... Fear of missed opportunities, having to choose paths... And now I groggily laugh, HA!, Alas!, I have chosen for now. [These days, as a fact, I no longer fear. Fear escapes me. I have adapted in more ways to more unusual situations than I can count.]

All in all, it's a simple life here. Struggles abound, I greet the light of day with a smile. Even on a rainy day, it is welcome here. It's an odd simulation, though, I must say. I'm given a general outline of a job description, dumped in a two room mud brick house and have to budget a peanut salary. Then, I have a community asking me questions in a foreign language and I'm suddenly conforming to the cultural norms of the village. Ok great - challenge accepted.

Cut to, 10 months and 3 seasons later I am facing a certain time block ahead of me... Knowing what I know now... The language, the job, the seasons... And I just sit here painting my walls with the rain outside and my crops emerging from the soil in my field.. And I think, I am so content. But what's next? I'm a bit of an analyzer, if you know me at all. I take a lot to heart, too. I calculatingly fly off the seat of my pants and I chase dreams til I'm riding their clouds.

Photo courtesy of a 5 y.o.
Just noticed there's paint on me here too, ha!

I mentioned how happy I am these days... But damnit I get filled with inescapable emotion when I think about all the other fantastic days of my family and friends. I truly value the ways in which I can stay connected with them.. When it's possible.. I do live in the bush and half the world's time zones away.

Still, I am carving out this little happy chunk of time to serving the people around me in any way I know how. Oh, and I am in proximity to dozens of wondrous destinations around this continent and I have ample time to see so many! And it's not just me here in Zambia. I have made countless friends and brought along two fantastic ones that I already knew!

Now, I tell you, I'm growing within myself and in my gardens. I'm seeking, I'm finding. I'm being kind to myself and others. I'm gaining confidence in all things. I still have trouble simply living day to day, but the pace of life and the people here have dictated my rate of project completion and enforced a continuum of working to live.

Indeed, I have witnessed both working to live (here) and living to work (in the states) to their extremes.. And as I sit here covered in paint, listening to rain mixed with a cool jazz hi-hat tremble from my speaker, I think, I am so content.

I am as happy for my friends and family living their dreams as I am here living mine.. And I'm real happy for them! I look ahead with my palms outward facing, my blessings on my back, and my eyes wide open to what bliss I am to find next.

This small dissertation was the result of a moment to myself. These moments we each need; to align ourselves with our own destiny. Try it for yourself. Produce art, listen to music, revere nature - all at once if you are lucky. Find inspiration everyday: in the work you do, in the ones you love, in the reflection you make.


I am wishing everyone near and far Happy Holidays and don't forget to keep in touch. Love and Joy!

Brandi
Current Mood: trembling Current Music: Again Today/Hiing My Heart - Brandi Carlile

A li'l update

Waiting for transport to haul my host's maize to market... Oh, yeah, I cut my hair..

Greetings!

I'm here at the Central Province office catching up on messages, research and electricity consumption! The last few months have proven to be a new scramble over the hills of service. Also, I've been climbing more hills (or mountains, as they are called no matter the size) around my area. I made it well through the cold season, which saw overnight temps of mid-upper 40's Fahrenheit. But, we've forgotten all that and now complain (just like Floridians do) about the heat of October. It's going to hit 91F today! though, soon enough the summer rains will come... For conservation farming purposes, we say to plant on Nov. 15.

As for me and my community, we have been busy with Cooperative meetings and field planning. Also, now is the time to finish up any construction projects before we enter the 5 month rainy season.

Co-op meeting to discuss a piggery project, under a mango tree at my home

 I just started my home garden nursery with seeds from the states (I hope they take!) so I can enjoy some nostalgia and variety in my diet! The field around my home will be planted with sunflowers and soybeans. Both are conservation crops which break the monotony of staple crops like maize and cassava. Sunflowers are an emerging industry with commercial use as oil, livestock and bird feed, and other applications. Soybeans are extremely nutritious and fix Nitrogen into the ground to naturally supplement the soil for the next season. I'll also grow my own maize, in part to demonstrate my earnestness to farm here.

 We recently held a youth outdoor environmental camp in our Province. We took 16 school children and 6 mentors to Kasanka National Park for 4 days of environmental education and nature tours. We had a blast! It was a fun opportunity since likely all of the children there would not have otherwise visited the Park which is just in their own backyards. We had lessons in English and Bemba and games and interactions throughout the day. We even went on safaris and saw an elephant in the near distance... my first sight in the wild and their first time ever! Oh, how they lit up with joy and wonder! At the end of the trip, all the kids had made new friends and went back to their villages to share their experience with their schools. Next, we'll have an all girls camp called, Girls Leading Our World (GLOW).

With friends, Shadreck and Ryan at Camp TREE

Next week I'll be enjoying a bit of exploration in the neighboring country, Malawi. First, we will head for the mountains for waterfall hiking, then down to Lake Malawi to snorkel the clear water and relax with a cold beverage, or three. Once in a lifetime, I will say.

Current Music: "Loving Wings" - Dave and Tim
Current Mood: Seasonal Cold Congestion

Adventures through the Zambian Bush

Local bridge

                 

Magic moments are frequent here. It seems so easy for exactly what should happen to come to fruition because our lives are overall quite simple; very few distractions (only vices) to take us off the right path. Besides that, adventure waits around every corner!

Here's a day in my life:

From my village there are two ways to get to my neighbor's community south of me: by the Tarmac or through the bush. I have traveled there by road, but only about 10km are by motorcar... The remaining 12km are by foot. Needless to say, I've wanted to find the bush path for some time now.

It was a Sunday when my counterpart, Mr. Mambwe, Rodgers, and I set off on our bicycles to reach Andre's place. First, we crossed the long flooded valley where farmers in my community have abundantly irrigated gardens. Then we traveled 8km of straight, slightly sandy path. We found a village soon and took winding paths through their homesteads - and I was supposed to remember the way. Anyway, by this point we had passed a group of rocky hills, making the scenery beautiful and unique. Now it was time to dip down deep into a ravine and cross a river on a wood log bridge (pictured). We walked our bikes all of this time and reached the edge of André's village (about 16km total)!

Mr. Mambwe

I got to catch up with him while Ba Rodgers attended the local church service. Come to find out though, the main reason for traveling this day was for a soccer match between Andre's village and ours (for which, Ba Rodgers is the coach of). So, by noon we were headed to the field where I immediately recognized the young men hanging out in the shade. Upon greeting them, we took spots to hang out and, quickly, more of our players rode up on bikes. Not having seen any local players, we were able to relax and joke around and dance a bit. Two hours and no locals later, I was already feeling pride for my boys, maybe a little too much in front of Andre... But then we were surprised with lunch from a (drunk, but happy) man named Isaiah: nshima and rape (basically kale) for the whole team! Full and energized, the players retreated to the field...for another hour, as it were. By 15:00 hours, the locals came around and we were ready to play. By now, the players were all changing into their red jerseys and those with silicon (not leather, or lined) cleets had them on...the rest play barefooted!

Our guys in red, winning!

The first half of the game we scored one goal and I entertained the children on our side of the field by passing a zamball (usually plastic bags bound by chitenge) and greeting them in Bemba. After halftime I was placing bets with the locals who could speak English and were drunk on beer made from maize (a very common sight in the villages). As the game and the day grew late we were up 3-0 and I was shouting and cheering in Bemba for my boys. After the last whistle, all the women and children from the other side of the field came over dancing and singing for our team's victory.

Now, at the start of dusk, we loaded our bikes and headed back the way we came. First, down the crevassed river pass, we hooted and hollered. Up the other side, through the neighboring village, the night crept in. Still singing, I willfully pedaled in the middle of the parade. I couldn't keep an open mouth grin from my face even with my growing fear of falling off my bike in the dark. The power of the boys' praise songs was echoed throughout the bush. Only the crescent moon lit our way down narrow paths of sand and stone, under sparse forests. As dark as the night became, I exuded elation. Pride for my village team and the adventure I was having. Eventually we made it back to the open valley of the local stream, with millions of stars above our heads... I knew we were home.

I love and miss everybody back in the states...but I hope you're getting a few snapshots of my exciting life here! Enjoy the simplicity in our day and give praise always!

Peace,

Brandi

Current Music: Catching up on 'Wait, Wait Don't Tell Me'

Current Mood: Giddy

First Three Months in the Village

Next week, I will be celebrating my 6-month kilometerstone of living in Zambia! I expected the time to fly by, but I didn't realize just how fulfilling it would be each day. Up until now I have been in the phase of my service know as Community Entry, a time in which I have simply been integrating with my village and getting my home in order. At this time, I have just returned from the capital city, Lusaka, for what was two weeks of workshops and exploring the big city. Lusaka residents live a completely different lifestyle than Zambians in the rural areas of the country, and small towns for that matter. Still, the struggles of the city are apparent as we tried to get around on foot or by taxi. Buses are erratic and extremely unsafe, sometimes the drivers are drunk and you are always battling their attempts to overcharge you....

In Lusaka, there are huge, overwhelming open markets (which are filthy) and large, modern shopping malls (retailers delight). On a visit to the capital, volunteers get to stock up on fancy foods and readymade house goods. Also, dining out in Lusaka is a total luxury, but an expensive one! It's a nice "break" from the simple village life.

At an Irish pub in Lusaka drinking an expensive Guinness!

Out for Korean BBQ and karaoke for Will's B-day!

Back in the vil, I have been getting to know my neighbors...and all the local drama that comes with a small, disparaged community. I've slowly gained a sense of life here, including family matters and making a livelihood from subsistence farming. Right now, farmers are completing the big maize harvest, next comes processing (hand-shucking and milling) and buying and selling among villagers and to the market.

Kalli, who is quickly growing big on a diet of eggs and nshima

Kalli helping harvest maize

Also, I got a kitten! I have named her after the cat I had growing up since she looks just like her! Funnily, Kalli Kay (with different spelling) actually means "let her be" in Bemba....it gets a little confusing at times, ha. She's the best little bed deadweight and mouse chaser and my host family seems to like her.

I want to shout out to my loved ones back home who have sent me letters, post cards, and offered care packages. It is truly my favorite part of this experience to hear from you all in different ways; it really makes me happy. Keep 'em coming!

Here is my new PO Box address:

Brandi Murphy

PO Box 850055

Serenje, Zambia

Once I head back from the Provincial House tomorrow to go back to the village, I'll be getting down to working: planning farming demos, school garden lessons, and bracing myself for the hot season!

Missing everyone back home! xo, Brandi

Current Mood: Anxious

Current Music: I Will - Brandi Carlile